Category Archives: TUTORIALS

Disappearing 9 Patch Block

I recently finished two quilts using a very easy block, a classic: the Disappearing 9 Patch. I think it is the first block I ever made…. and one of my favourite ones because it is great for beginners and is very versatile. If you choose your fabric carefully you can end up with endless colour and print combinations with great results for the final pieced top.


For this block I used 3 different prints:

  1. One print for the central square. This will become 4 little squares.
  2. A second print for the squares in the corners, which will remain the same size.
  3. The third print for the squares at central top and bottom, left and right, will become rectangles.


Knowing this, you can anticipate the look of your final quilt.

For a scrappy look, you can use lots of different fabrics or combine random prints for all the squares except for example the ones in the centre… There are lots of different ways to play with the fabric combinations in this block.

Here are a few tips for making a perfect Disappearing-9-Patch block:

  1. Make sure you use starch when pressing your fabric before you cut it into squares. It helps to set the woven threads and the cut squares will keep their shape longer before you sew them together.
  1. Always pin your fabric to prevent it from moving while you sew and stick to your ¼” seam. When aligning your squares together, start pinning at the centre and move towards both sides.
  1. Press the line of stitches after sewing, while right sides of fabric are still together, to set them flat and then press the seams open. I always press my seams open, I find they help the pieced top lay flat more nicely.
  1. Just PRESS, and DO NOT IRON. Pressing means to lay your hot iron onto the fabric for a few seconds without moving it back and forth. Ironing means the opposite, moving the iron all over the fabric, this is ok for clothes, but not for patchwork, otherwise the grain will move and the pieces will loose their shape.
  1. When you are ready to sew one row of 3 squares onto the row below, align the edges while making sure that you match the seams (which are pressed open) between the squares, and pin together these seams first (again start at the centre and work your way towards both sides). Placing the pin on the left seam (this way ensures that when you are sewing the two pieces the seam at the bottom won’t flip over.




When you have the basic 9 patch block ready, with all corners perfectly matched, you can cut the block into quarters

Cut vertically right on the middle.

Next, cut the block horizontally (You can move your cutting mat or walk around your table instead and it will be easier to cut vertically again).


Now you can also play with the layout of the quarters of this block and arrange them in different combinations.


I chose to turn two opposite quarters and place the tiny squares to the outside corners. But you could turn around all four of them or one or three… Just experiment and see what you like.

Here’s another combination:


Once you decide how to arrange the quarters, sew them together. Follow the same method as before, by matching the seams, pin them together to avoid unwanted twists and press them open (I need to press those opened seams a bit more!:-D)


You will have the Disappearing 9 Patch with perfect matching corners lying nice and flat.

It is handy to use precut squares like a charm pack (5” squares) or just cut them into whatever size you need. I have build up a big stash of 5” squares over the years out of leftovers and generally use them for projects like this.


When using 5” squares the final size of the basic 9-patch block is 14.5” and the disappearing 9-patch will be then 14”.


I’m sure many of you have made this block before, I’d love to see what it looks like. Feel free to link it in a message if you like!

Thanks for reading !








Quilt Labels Tutorial

Do you use labels for your finished quilts?

When I finished my first proper quilt, the lady who gave me my first quilting lesson told me I should label all my quilts, so dutifully I did and bought a pack of 3 or 4 sheets of printable fabric. These are A4 sized white cotton fabric glued to a sheet of paper. You can  load them on your printer to print your labels.

A friend told me that I could actually make them with freezer paper. I asked my husband to buy me a roll from the US during one of his work trips and I still have most of it left. I did try and with a bit of skill, it works. Here’s how I did it.

You will need:

Freezer paper

cotton fabric (I use calico cotton)


a stick of glue (for general paper crafts)

a printer (mine is a HP deskjet)

an iron


1. First you need to design your label on a word processor, you can add your logo and be as creative as you want.

2. Cut a piece of fabric the same size of an A4 sheet or slightly smaller and do the same with the freezer paper.


3. Prepare your iron by setting it a medium heat and press the freezer paper onto the fabric making sure that the glossy side is onto the fabric.


4. Press on the paper side and then on the fabric side to smooth it better.

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5. Refine the size by cutting the edges with your ruler and rotary cutter.


Here’s a good tip: Sometimes I was able to load this sheet in the printer as it was and it went through perfectly fine. But other times it got stuck and created a PAPER JAM PAPER JAM…!!! This is easy to resolve by sticking the back (the freezer paper side) of your prepared sheet onto an A4 sheet of paper with a bit of glue. You only need to glue the bottom side, the one that starts to feed into the printer, to help it go through. This way it won’t get stuck and it will come out perfectly.


6. Make the most of  it by printing two or three labels at a time, depending on the size you want. You can then cut them with your ruler and rotary cutter, press the edges to the back and sew them onto your quilts.


I hope you find this useful!

Have you got any other tricks to make your own labels? I’d like to know if you do.




Filed under COSTURA- SEWING, fabric, PATCHWORK, quilting, TUTORIALS

Tutorial: Matching stripes on your stripy binding tape

Have you ever used stripes for binding a quilt?

I love stripes! and I think they work so well for finishing a quilt, if it’s not on its borders I would definitely use it for the binding if I can.

I am making a custom quilt at the moment and I have been taking a few snap shots in some of the stages so I can share a few tips. Here’s the first one: preparing your stripy binding tape.

I always make my binding tape when I am cutting all the fabric for the piecing, then I have it ready when the quilting is done. I love that stage, that moment when your quilt is nearly finished and you are looking forward to a couple of hours on the sofa and back in the company of your (neglected) family…

So here we go. After you cut all your strips (I always cut 2.5″ wide by WOF and here I am using Funfair Colour Strips by Stof).

Have a good look at how the stripes go. Choose the stripe that is completely full and closer to the edge (I am choosing the pink one with white dots on the vertical strip at the right of the photo)



Now place it onto the strip that lays horizontally, with right sides together (RST), and making sure that the horizontal top sideline of the pink stripe is aligned with the top edge of the bottom binding strip. You will see in the photo below that the edge of the strip on top is also aligned with the sideline of the vertical pink strip on the bottom.

(I don’t mind much about the perforated selvages because this won’t be seen when I sew the binding onto the quilt)


Pin the two strips in place to prevent them from moving and draw a line from the top left angle to the right bottom angle to use as a guide when you are sewing.



Sew along the line, backstitching at the start and the end and cut about 1/4″ along the seam.


Press the seam open and cut the excess tips on the sides.


Now you have a continuous stripy binding tape with matching stripes!




Have you got any tips on stripy binding? Or maybe on how to make binding altogether? You might like to share them, just write in the comment box!



Tilted Square in a Square, a tutorial and a goodbye!

Well, again it’s been a long while since my last post, so that’s why I’ve decided to hibernate… It’s quite difficult to juggle between a full-time job, 2 young children, a partner, a shop, a hobby, a blog… So I’ll take a break from blogging and hopefully I’ll come back with loooots more of time, to be able to read and enjoy other blogs (since this is how it all started and I really miss it).

I’ll say goodbye with a tutorial that many people asked me to share. Honestly, I didn’t really write anything while I was making the first quilt, it was all experimenting, but then I made a second one and took photographs of each step.

About a year ago I made this quilt. I had been (and still am) very inspired by the bright colours and rainbow-like projects from other blogs and flickr groups and I wanted to try and work with solids too. I also wanted to use my new 60 degree triangular ruler and cut triangles. I have this fear with triangles you see, they eventually open at the bias and I can’t never have a perfect seam… So I always sew squares diagonally to come up with triangles and I don’t have to deal with that.

But I really wanted to cut triangles!


I had seen this slightly tilted block idea in a quilting magazine. There was no instructions for it because the quilt was on the background of a photograph. I tried to search online for a pattern and typed “wonky square” on Google and all I got were lots of different designs of wonky squares alright but not like the one I wanted.

I’m sure there would be an easier way, probably some more experienced quilters would be able to work that out in no time. But I’m not that experienced…

Here I’ll show you what I did to find out the size of the triangle I need to make the block. You can change the angle of inclination to make it more or less tilted, and then I’ll show you how I assembled the quilt. Write me an email if you have any questions 🙂


How to make a triangle template for a wonky square block

(*NOTE if you do not have a 60 degree ruler, find the diagonal line on the grid of cutting mat that marks a 60 degree angle)

1.Take a paper and cut out a square about 4″ larger than the square you want to be tilted ( here a 5″square).


2. Align the right angle of the ruler with the bottom left angle of the paper square and align the side of the 5″ square with the side of the ruler like this:


3. Make sure to leave 1/2″ between the angle of the 5″ square and the side of the paper square.

4. With a ruler, trace a line along the side of the 5″ square, from that angle to the next one and again leave 1/2″ between the angle and the side. Do the same following the perimeter of the 5″ square .


5. Cut the excess paper to have an exact square with 1/2″ distance from each of angles of the inner square  to the sides of the outer one as shown below.



6. Cut this triangle as a template and add 1″ at the bottom following the horizontal lines of the ruler like this: (*NOTEif you do not have a 60 degree ruler, find the diagonal line on the grid of cutting mat that marks a 60 degree angle)




This will be the size you’ll need for a 5″.

So by cutting 2 rectangles of fabric that measure 7″x 4″, and cutting them diagonally,

I would get 4 scalene triangles just like the template I wanted.

You want 4 triangles like this if you are using white fabric like I did because there isn’t right or wrong sides on solids.  If you are using printed fabric, you will need to cut 2 triangles, then flip the template over and cut 2 more.


How to make a wonky square quilt with solids

(please note the photographs will show alternate patterns. This tutorial will show you how to make the blocks. The way you arrange them is up to you 🙂


– rainbow colours: 5″ squares, as many as you want depending on how big you want your quilt.

– white fabric: 4 triangles per coloured square (follow template above)

pssst… Did you know that FILILIS is selling Moda solids at 50% off???


To make a block with a centre square tilted onto the left, sew the longest side of the triangle onto the top and bottom sides of the square making sure the 60 degree angle is on the left. Leave 1 1/4″ off the edge, as shown below:



 Press seams to the white and sew the other 2 triangles as before, pressing seams to the white.




Align the block with the grid of  your cutting mat and with a squared ruler  align a 1/4″  off each angle for a seam allowance.




 Rotate the block and do the same with the other to angles.


You end up with a 6 3/4″ square block


For a block with the square tilted onto the right, you would need to flip over the triangles so the 60 degree angle is on the right.

 Follow the same steps as above.




Cut the little corners at the back.

Arrange the blocks the way you like and sew them row by row, pressing the seams to one side for one row, and to the other side for the row below.

When all the rows are sewn, start to sew the top one with the one below and press the seams open.


Add a border with the same with the same white fabric.


photo copy

Proceed to quilt following your desired pattern.

I preferred to highlight the squares so I sew straight lines on the outside of each square.

For the borders, I echoed the zig-zag all around the squares.

foto 1 copy 2

foto copy 7

There are a few different patterns you can make using these blocks. I hope you enjoyed to watch this process! I donated this last quilt to raise funds for a beautiful boy with cerebral palsy (and the most astonishing blue eyes) who lives in our area.



The Wrapped Up Zipper Bag (or Origami Pouch…): Tutorial


I just realised there already was a zipper pouch (one of maaaaaany) that used the name Origami, you’ll find it in Amy Butler’s book Styles Stitches. I wasn’t aware of that so I think I should find a nother name for this zipper bag… It reminds me of a wrapped up present, so Ithink I’ll call it the Wrapped Up Zipper Bag, even though it involves some Origami folding!

If you like Origami and are good at it then you won’t have any problem with this… If you are not good at folding, don’t worry, I’ll teach you how to do it!

Si us agrada l’Origami i domineu la tecnica no tindreu pas problema per fer un estoig com aquest… Pero si no teniu gaire practica, no us preocupeu que ja us ensenyo com es fa!


You can choose whatever size you want, just make sure that your zipper is 2″ longer on either side to make your life easier.

Podeu fer-la de la mida que volgueu, nomes heu de tenir en compte de fer servir una cremallera que sigui 5cm mes llarga a cada extrem per no complicar-vos la vida.


For the flowery type box:

15″x10″rectangles of outer fabric and lining fabric

100% cotton wadding for quilting the 2 layers

5″x4″ rectangle of outer fabric

2 rectangles of 3″x4″ of outer fabric or any contrasting fabric with the lining

14″ zipper

Per un estoig com el de les flors:

rectangle 25cm x 35cm de de tela exterior

rectangle  25cm x 35cm de tela interior

guata de 100%coto per encoixinar els dos rectangles anteriors

rectangle de 12cm x 10cm

2 rectangles de 7.5cm x 10cm de tela exterior o que contrasti amb la interior

cremallera de 35cm


For the linen type pouch:

11″x10.5″ rectangle of exterior fabric (you can see I used a patchwork panel)

11″x10.5″ rectangle of interior fabric

fusible fleece to quilt both rectangles

5″x4″ rectangle of outer fabric

2 rectangles of 2.5″x4″ of outer fabric or any contrasting fabric with the lining

Per un estoig com el de lli :

rectangle 25cm x 35cm de de tela exterior

rectangle  25cm x 35cm de tela interior

Entretela tipus forro polar per encoixinar els dos rectangles anteriors

rectangle de 12cm x 10cm

2 rectangles de 6cm x 10cm de tela exterior o que contrasti amb la interior

cremallera de 35cm

The process will be the same in any size, I’ve used photos from both pouches for the tutorial.

El proces es el mateix per a qualsevol mida, veureu que hi ha fotos dels dos estoigs en aquest tutorial


1. Sew one side of the zipper on to the 10″ side of the rectangle, FACING DOWN at 1/8″ from the edge.

1. Cosiu un costat de la cremallera CARA AVALL a 0.5mm del costat de 25cm del rectangle. 


2. Trim the excess fabric with shears.

2. Talleu l’exces de tela amb unes tisores zigzag.


3. Press onto the right side and topstitch.

3. Planxeu a la banda del dret i cosiu un repunt.


4. Mark the zipper with a pen at the point where both edges end.

4. Marqueu la cremallera amb boligraf alla on la tela acaba.


5. Sew the other side of the zipper by folding the rectangle over (zipper FACING DOWN onto RIGHT SIDE of fabric).

5. Cosiu l’altre costat de la cremallera, doblegant el rectangle de manera que la cremallera mira cap AVALL sobre la tela del DRET). 


6. Cut the excess fabric again and this time you will need to fully open the zipper to press and topstitch.

6. Talleu l’exces de tela i aquest cop haure d’obrir la cremallera per a poder planxar i fer el repunt.



7. Stich the bottom edge of the zipper

7. Feu unes puntades a la part d’abaix de la cremallera.

IMG_59728. Take the small rectangle and press in half, then press both edges inwards towards the centre crease.

8. Agafeu el rectanlge petit i planxeu-lo per la meitat, torneu a planxar els extrems cap al doblec del centre.


IMG_59749. Sew both edges and sew a tag if you use one.

9. Cosiu els costats i cosiu-hi la vostra etiqueta si voleu.

IMG_597510. Right, now for the Origami session… Turn the pouch inside out and fold it flat with the zipper at the centre.

10. Be, ara comencem amb l’Origami… Gireu l’estoig del reves i el xafeu de manera que la cremallera quedi al centre.


11. Use a pin to mark the centre

11. Col.loqueu una agulla per marcar el centre


12. Tuck in the edge towards the centre where the pin is. Excuse all the frayed threads!!!

12. Col.loqueu el doblec exterior cap endins cap a l’agulla. Perdoneu per els fils desfilats!


13. Do the same on the other side and repeat these last steps for the other edge of the pouch.

13. Feu el mateix amb l’altre costat i repetiu els dos ultims punts amb l’altre extrem de l’estoig.


15. Place the tag strip into one edge.

15. Col.loqueu la tira de l’etiqueta dins d’un extrem.


16. OPEN THE ZIPPER before you sew both edges.

16. OBRIU LA CREMALLERA abans de cosir cada extrem.

IMG_598617. Trim the excess fabric and the zipper.

17. Talleu l’exces de tela i de cremallera.


18. With the 2 small rectangles left, make a binding for each seam by following the instructions in step 8.

18. Amb els dos rectangles petits que us queden feu una veta per cobrir les costures dels extrems seguint les instruccions del punt 8.



20. Turn de pouch and you’re done! I hope you’ve enjoyed this tutorial. I’d love to see your pouch if you make one so feel free to come back and share your link in a comment below. Thank you!

20. Gireu l’estoig del dret i ja el teniu fet! Espero que us hagi agradat. Magradaria veure el vostre estoig si en feu un, podeu compartir l’enllaç en un comentari per a que tots el veiem. Gracies!










Thank you all so much for all your nice comments on Conor’s arrival! We’re settling in well, bit by bit and taking one day at a time… Conor is doing great, putting on weight, more than average! I’d say living surrounded by cows might influence my milk supply…
The nice heat wave that we had here is gone and now we’re back to the typical Irish non-stop drizzling rain… ah well, more time indoors then, cozy fires and maybe a little bit of time for a couple of stitches (????).

Before Conor was born I made that tea wallet and I took pics of every step for a tutorial, so here it is as promised. I hope you make lots and show me the result! you can add your link in a comment in this post, I’d love to see what you make.

Moltissimes gracies per totes les vostres felicitacions! Ja estem ben instal.lats a casa i ens ho prenem tot amb calma, a poc a poc. En Conor esta molt be, segons la infermera que ens visita s’ha engreixat mes del que un nado de LM normalment s’engreixa… deu ser que totes les vaques que ens envolten per aqui influeixen la meva produccio!
La onada de calor que vam tenir ja ha cabat i ara hem tornat a la tipica pluja irlandesa de txirimiri constant… que hi farem, mes temps a casa, a la voreta del foc i potser amb una mica de temps per fer algunes puntadetes (????).

Abans de neixer el Conor vaig fer aquell estoig per a guradar bossetes de te i vaig fer fotos de cada pas per un tutorial. Doncs be, aqui el teniu! Espero que en feu molts i me’ls ensenyeu…

lining fabric: 
3 pieces measuring 7″x 5″
1 piece measuring 7″x 6.5″
outer fabric:
1 piece measuring 7″x 6.5″

1 elastic
1 botton
tela interior:
3 peces de 7″x 5″
1 peça de 7″x 6.5″
tela exterior:
1 peça de 7″ x 6.5″
1 goma
1 boto

 1. Press the 3 pieces by half lengthwise so they measure 7″x 2.5″.
1. Planxeu les 3 peces per la meitat per a que quedin 7″x 2.5″.
2. You can add an appliqué or/and your tag on one of them.
2. Podeu afegir un aplicat i/o la vostra etiqueta en una d’elles.

3. Topstitch on the folded side of each piece. These will be the pockets.
3. Feu un reput a la part doblegada de cada peça. Seran les butxaques.
3. Place one piece onto the remaining lining piece (7″ x6.5″), 
leaving a space of 1″ between the top of the piece and the top of the pocket. 
a. Sew the bottom of the pocket onto the main piece. 
b. Now align the second pocket onto the first pocket, leaving a space of 1 1/4″ between the top
of the first pocket and the second. Again sew the bottom onto the main piece.
c. Align the third pocket leaving the same space between the two tops, this time you don’t need to sew the bottom as you’ll sew all the pieces together later.
3. Col.loqueu una de les peces a sobre de la peça que medeix 7″x 6.5″.
a. Deixeu un espai d’una polazada
entre el marge de dalt i el marge de la butxaca. Cosiu la part d’abaix de la butxaca a la peça gran.
b. Col.loqueu la segona butxaca sobre la primera, deixant una polazda i quart entre les dues parts superiors i cosiu la part d’abaix per fer la segona butxaca.
c. Feu el mateix amb la tercera pero aquest cop no cal que cosiu la part d’abaix ja que
ho cosireu tot junt mes tard.

NOTE: the gauge in the picture is showing the wrong measure, it should be 1″ between the top and the first pocket and 1 1/4″ between pockets. 
 NOTA: la foto mostra la mesura incorrecta, hauria de ser una polazada entre la part superior i la primera butxaca i una polzada i quart entre les butxaques.
4. Sew from bottom to top at the centre of the pockets.
4. Cosiu verticalment al centre de les butxaques, des d’abaix fins a dalt.

5. Now take the outer fabric and place the elastic on the centre-left side, inwards.
5. Ara agafeu la tela exterior i col.loqueu la goma al centre del costat esquerre, cap endins.

6. Place the pockets piece facing down onto the right side of the outer fabric and sew all along
leaving a gap of 4″ at the bottom.
6. Col.loqueu la peça amb les butxaques mirant cap abaix, sobre la part del dret de la tela exterior
i cosiu a 1/4″per tot al voltant deixant un espai d’unes 4″ a la part de sota.

7. To reinforce the elastic, stitch back and forth a few times.
7 Per reforçar la goma, feu uns quants repunts.

4″ gap at the bottom.
espai de 4″ a la part inferior.
8. Cut the corners before turning the wallet inside out through the gap.
8. Talleu les cantonades abans de girar l’estoig cap enfora a traves de l’espai que hem deixat.

9. Press and topstitch at 1/8″ all around, closing the gap at the same time.
9. Planxeu i cosiu a un 1/8″ de marge aprofitant per tancar l’espai de sota.

10. Sew a botton on the other side, being careful 
not to sew it throughout he pocket (as it happened to me…)

10. Cosiu-hi un boto a l’altra banda, anant en compte de no cosir la butxaca! (com em va passar a mi…)
and fill in with your favourite tea bags…
i ara l’ompliu amb les bossetes de te que mes us agradi…

Do you like tea? Have you got any favorite flavour or blend?
My favorite tea blend is Nambarrie. 
My husband is from Belfast (where the Nambarrie headquarters were) and this is the tea he grew up with, along with plain chocolate digestives…mmm

Us agrada el te? hi ha alguna barreja en especial que preferiu?
El meu te preferit es aquest, Nambarrie. El meu company es de Belfast (on hi havia originalment la fabrica) i va creixer amb aquest te, juntament amb galetes deigestive de xocolata…mmm

you can only find it in Northen Ireland and Scotland, 
so it is quite an expedition when we need to buy more! 

Nomes es pot trobar a Irlanda del Nord o a Escocia, aixi que
es tota una expedicio quan n’hem de comprar mes!




This is a tutorial I originally posted at Fairy Face Designs as part of the Sew Get Started list of tutorials.
I thought now it would be good to have it here as well, hope you like it!
Aquest tutorial el vaig publicar originalment a Fairy Face Designs com a part del lliestat de tutorials de Sew Get Started. He pensat que ara estaria be de tenir-lo aqui tambe. Espero que us agradi!


 washed and ironed wash cloths
(I used these from IKEA)
100% cotton fabric
coordinating thread

Tovalloles de ma, rentades i planxades
(vaig comprar les meves a IKEA)
tela de coto 100%
fil de vrais colors pe combinar

Cut the binding off the wash cloths and press

Talleu la vora de les tovalloles i planxeu-les

Cut a piece of the same size of the cotton fabric
Place it right side facing down and pin

 Talleu una peça de la tela de coto de la mateixa mida 
sue us ha quedat la tovallola. Poseu-la sobre la tovallola
amb la cara del dret cap avall i poseu-hi agulles al voltant

Stitch all around leaving a seam of 1/2″ 
and making sure you leave a gap of about 4″

Cosiu tot el voltant deixant un marge de 1cm
i deixant un espai sense cosir d’uns 8 cm

Remember to back-stitch 
at the beginning and end of your stitching

Recordeu assegurar el punt al començar i acabar
la costura amb uns repunts

Cut the corners so it will lay nice and flat 
when you turn it inside out

Talleu les cantonades 
tenint cura de no tallar la costura

Turn the cloth inside out through the gap 
making sure the edges are pointing out (I used a pencil) 
and press

Poseu la peça del dret a traves de
l’espai que heu deixat sense cosir i ajudeu-vos 
amb un llapis per marcar les puntes cap enfora. Planxeu.

If you are using labels, 
now it is the time to insert one between the opening
Arrange the opening seam inwards following the stitching

Si feu servir etiquetes,
ara es el moment d’afegir-la a l’espai obert.

Topstitch all around with coordinating thread
 making sure you close the opening 
and your label is sewn in
You can use a normal straight stitch or try a zig-zag

Feu un reput a tot el voltant i de passada tancareu l’espai obert amb l’etiqueta. Podeu fer servir punt 
recte o zig-zag i fil de color que contrasti

They make great little gifts 
and you can make a good pile in no time.
When you get more experienced, 
you could add some appliqué or ric-rac all around…
I’ll appreciate you giving me credit 
if you decide to publish or sell your burp clothes
when following this tutorial.
thank you!

Es un bon regal per a nadons i en un 
moment en podeu fer una pila.
Hi podeu afegir aplicats a la banda de la tovallola, 
o incloure una cinta ric rac a la vora.
Agrairé que m’acrediteu si decidiu publicar o vendre
aquest projecte seguint aquest tutorial.